STEPS: READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!
1. Jack front of truck and support the axle with jack stands. Be sure not to let the axle hang as it will throw off your measurements.
Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the existing draglink, pitman arm and gear box. (If you intend to use the existing column you will have to cut it off the gear
box, we do not recommend this).
3. Remove the upper shock bracket for now. (You will have to chisel off the rivets to do this).
4. Locate the axle centerline from front to rear by measuring the front to rear width of axle and divide by two. Mark the axle with chalk.
5. Using a square set it on the axle and locate your center mark. Now mark the frame rail. this should be an accurate mark. (This mark
can fluctuate an 1/8” in either direction, which is why the draglink is adjustable).
6. From your mark on the frame (which is the axle centerline) measure forward along the top of the frame 12-1/2” and mark the
frame. From that mark, measure down 1” and mark. Using a 7/16” drill bit, drill the frame here.
7. The new gear box has four mounting holes. Remember, this kit mounts the box on the outside of the frame and in front of the axle.
8. Mount the triangular bracket with the long spacer to the gear box mounting hole that is the top rear-most hole on the gear box when
looking at the side of the unit.
9. Go to the hole you drilled in the frame and install your second gear box bolt from the inside out. Slide one of the three remaining
spacers over the bolt. This spacer is meant to space the gear box away from the frame.
10. Locate the upper front-most hole in the gear box. Allow the triangle bracket that you installed in step 8 to rest on top of the frame and carefully
tighten the bolt that you just installed through the frame. This locates the box and all you have to do now is mark the two remaining holes, remove
the gear box and drill them out. Once this is done, remount the gear box to the frame (make sure you install the three spacers between the gear box
and frame).
11. Now is the time to weld the triangle bracket to the top of the frame.
12. Next remove the brake drum or disc rotor depending on your application. Locate the two upper mounting bolts that mount the drum or caliper
bracket and remove them. The steering arm mounts to the spindle using these two mounting holes. It is important to remember that the
steering arm can be mounted with the tapered hole facing up or down. The trick to proper steering arm mounting is to make it so the drag link sits
level once the pitman arm is installed. Typically the drag link mounts into the steering arm from the top pointing down.
13. Mount the pitman arm to the gear box and install the drag link. A reversed pitman arm is available for lowered applications.
14. The steering box, steering arm, drag link and pitman arm should all be installed by now. Reinstall the brakes.
15. The next step is to remount your driver sided shock. You have several choices to make at this time. First, you can simply mount the
driver side shock to the rear of you axle by reusing your old brackets and flipping them from front to rear keeping the shock angle the same as
the passenger side or you can flip both driver and passenger brackets to the back side to make them match. (Remember that shock
absorbers are usually mounted at a 20 to 30 degree angle from vertical. Our recommendation is to use our shock mount kit.
16. That is it as far as the mounting of the power steering kit. Enjoy!
PSK4759 TUNING TIP
1. This gear box is mounting to the vehicle EXACTLY the same way GM mounted it from the factory on the later model it came off of!!!!!! If the bolts are
breaking then it is because of two things. They are loose and not properly torqued. The gear box uses 4—7/16-14 bolts that thread into it and should be
torqued to 40ft/lbs. Also, they NEED to be grade 8 in rating!!!! Also due to casting variations, make sure the gear box body it not hitting the frame
before the bolts are tight. With this said the problem should be solved!
2. The steering arm shearing off the bolt. This is caused by too low of a bolt grade rating and the bolt is not properly torqued. MAKE SURE THE BOLT IS NOT
BOTTOMING OUT ON THE INTERNAL THREADS OF THE STEERING ARM!!!! This arm uses 2—-7/6-20 bolts to mount it. They must be grade 8 in rating and
torqued to 40ft/lbs.
3. Vehicle handles terribly and feels unsafe. This is caused by the installer not properly positioning the steering arm. The supplied drag link MUST be level!!!
By your pictures it is at a severe angle. Try turning the steering arm over. Also, we offer 2 different pitman arms!!! make sure if the truck is stock height
you have a std arm and if it is lowered you have a reverse pitman arm.
4. To really make the vehicle feel better we HIGHLY recommend a 4 degree caster shim to be installed!!! This will really help the handling of the vehicle.
Unfortunately all of the items you listed in your email are mostly installer related, and once you follow our advice you will be MUCH happier and confident in the system.
