Power Brake Booster Kit, 1962-74 Mopar A, B & E BODY

1962-74 MOPAR | CHRYSLER | DODGE | PLYMOUTH CAR,
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER & DISC WHEEL KIT
#BB-6374
WARNING: Installation of any component or kit should only be performed
by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of brake
systems. It is also the responsibility of the person installing any brake
component or kit to determine the suitability of the component or kit for
that particular application.
NOTE: Before operating the vehicle after installation test the function of the brakes under controlled conditions.
Make several stops in a safe area from low speed and gradually work up to normal speeds. DO NOT DRIVE WITH
UNTESTED BRAKES! Always utilize safety restraints when operating the vehicle.
STEP 1:
1. Check to be sure that your kit has all the necessary parts needed to complete this project! (Use the supplied parts list as a check list.)
STEP 2:
1. Remove the following components from your car:
Tech tip: Prior to disassembly spray the nuts and bolts that you will be removing with a penetrant. (Also disconnect the battery to
eliminate the risk of draining the battery or an electrical short).
2. Remove the old master cylinder from your car by first disconnecting the brake lines to the master cylinder. Next, remove the push rod from
the brake pedal by removing the bolt located at the top of the pedal. Now, remove the four bolts that hold the master to the firewall.
STEP 3:
Things to prepare before assembly of the new booster and master kit:
1. Bench bleed the new master cylinder to remove all the air. If all the air is removed from the master, then it will be difficult to push the piston in.
How to bench bleed:
Remove the master from the booster and place in a vice. (Be sure to clamp onto the mounting ear and not the cylinder).
Install the proper size plugs in the outlet ports of the master.
Fill the master cylinder to the full line with brake fluid.
Use a rounded end rod or a phillips head screw driver and push the piston in repeatedly until no bubbles are visible.
NOTE: This may take a minute or two of continuous pumping!
STEP 4: – Installation of booster and master components:
1. Mount the new power booster with bracket to the firewall using the four holes, where the old master was originally located.
2. Attach the push rod from the booster to the pedal locating it in the same position as the manual master push rod. (There is also a longer push
that comes with the kit if needed). If the car originally had manual brakes, there may be only one hole in the pedal. In most cases you can use
the existing hole for the new power booster but, in some cases you may be required to drill a hole 1” lower than the original hole. (This will keep
the push rod from being in a severe angle which could damage the booster).
Note: If only one hole exists and the rod would be on a severe angle when attached, drill a second hole 1” lower to put the push rod in a horizontal position.
3. Now attach the vacuum hose to the bottom rear of the carburetor or directly to the intake manifold. You will need at least 18” of vacuum.
4. Mount the master cylinder onto the booster.
5. Install the adjustable prop valve in line to the rear brakes. It is important that you remove any factory installed valves from the system. Failure
to do this could result in a nonfunctional brake system.
6. On vehicles which had a single outlet master cylinder you will need to install a new hard line from the proportioning valve outlet to a T-fitting
and then on to the rear wheels. There are two outlets for the front wheel on the combination valve. You have the option of running a line from each
wheel to each outlet or running both lines to a T-fitting and then into one of the front outlets. (In this scenario, you will have to plug the unused outlet).
Either way is acceptable and neither routing has improved braking performance over the other. (Be sure to keep all lines away from exhaust, steering
or other things that could harm them). A protective coil (Part #3879283) that covers the lines is available from the Chrysler dealer.
7. When the valve is plumbed correctly, bleed the entire system.
8. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Test the brakes. If the pedal goes to the floor or is very spongy then bleed the system once again.
9. Test drive the car in a safe location before driving.
If you are not using a combination valve, or you have four wheel drum brakes, you will need to run one line from the master cylinder to the front and one
to the rear. The outlet furthest from the booster will feed the front brakes. We recommend that you use a 10lb residual valve on both the front and rear
drum brakes to provide a firmer pedal feel.
Note: You will have to reinstall the stop light switch on the pedal assembly and adjust it so that it functions properly!
Drilling a new hole
here puts the rod in a
horizontal position.
Attaching the rod here
would put it on too
severe of an angle.
TO REAR TO FRONT
Performance Online, Inc. / 714.278.0098 / fax 714.278.0098
1931 Sampson ave Corona Ca, 92879 Performanceonline .com