NOTE: THE REAR AXLE MUST BE REMOVED TO INSTALL THIS KIT!
- Prior to disassembly spray the nuts and bolts that will be removed with a penetrant.
- Remove the rear tires.
- Disconnect the drum brake hoses from the hard line using the appropriate flare wrenches.
- Remove the stock Ford drums, brakes and the backing plates from the housing. To do this, you will first need to remove the “T” bolts that hold the backing plates and the axles to the housing.
- Now pull the rear axles out of the rear end housing by an axle puller. This will ensure that no damage is done to the axle or flange.
- Now you can remove the drum backing plate and disconnect the emergency brake.
- Clean the rotors using brake cleaner first, then with soap and water. Dry with a clean towel.
- Check to make sure the axle flange is 6 1/8″ in diameter or smaller. (Trial fit the rotor to the axle flange). This will ensure that the rotor will mount flush to the axle flange. ( If the axle flange is larger than 6 1/8″, you will need to machine it down to the proper size) if you have aftermarket axles consult the manufacturer before machining them.
- Clean the axle housing flanges and where the axle bearing seats.
- Now you will need to determine which set of spacers and brackets you will need for your car. Each set has been individually bagged for ease of identification. The easiest way to identify bagged for ease of identification.The easiest to identify which set you will use is to check the holes in the spacer plate to see if they align with the hole in your axle housing.
- Once you have determined which set of spacers and brakcets you will need for your car, each set has been individually bagged for ease of identification.
- Install the primary bracket so that the calipers will be mounted up and toward the rear of the car.
- Now reinstall and tighten the bearing retainer nuts.
- Take the supplied bolts, and install those on the primary bracket. Then use the spacers, which are also provided, and install those into the bolts.
- Bolt the secondary bracket to the primary bracket and tighten the nylox nuts.
- IMPORTANT: Check to be sure the axle retaining the “T” bolt heads clear the edge of the secondary bracket! If the “T” bolts interferes with the secondary bracket, it will be necessary to trim the bolt head to allow it to seat properly.
- Install the new rotor onto the axle flange. ( Note: Use two or three wheel nuts so that you will not damage or warp the rotor. ) Now rotate the rotor and check that the rotor runs true. You also want to be sure that nothing is interfering with the rotation. To be sure that that rotor is flush to the axle flange and is all the way over the axle center pilot, insert some of the strips of paper between the back of the rotor and the axle flange. If you cannot pull the paper out easily, then the rotor is all the way on.
- Now install the caliper onto the caliper bracket and over the rotor. The caliper should straddle the caliper bracket and the rotor. ( Make sure the bleed screw is facing up!) Be sure to check all the clearances before proceeding!
- Attach the flexible brake hose to the caliper and then to the hard line. Now attach the E-Brake cable to the caliper. The parking brake cables are supplied to bring you to a central point; it is the customer’s responsibility to tie the cables into the system!
- Bleed the brakes and test for a full pedal. If the back wheels skid before the front you should install a proportioning valve to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes.
REAR CALIPER ADJUSTMENT:
Whan installing the rear disc brakes with the calipers that have an internal parking brake you must adjust or set the calipers when installing. Failure to do so will the caliper and rotor installed on the vehicle. You must set the parking brake everytime you park to keep the calipers adjusted.
INITIAL ADJUSTMENT:
- Remove the spring.
- Crank the lever of turn the retention nut to actuate the lever forward.
- After cranking the lever forward as far as it will go, rotate it back the other way until you hit the stop. You may need to use a long screwdriver to lever the lever back into place.
- The rear caliper should now be correctly adjusted.
- Re-install spring
IMPORTANT: You must use the parking brake mechanism on a regular basis to set the self adjusting calipers. Failure to use rear brake will result in rear brake loss!
BOOSTER & MASTER CYLINDER INSTALLATION (IF PURCHASED WITH KIT)
- Discinnect the old master cylinder lines (Remember, if operation around painted surfaces, avoid brake fluid to paint contact). Remove any valves that are installed in the drum system and discard. If the vehicle has a pressure differential switch, it must also be removed. Remove the old master cylinder.
- When changing from a manual brake system to a power system, the clevis assembly that attaches the push rod to the brake pedal must be removed and lowered one inch. If only one hole exists from the maual system a second hole must be drilled one inch lower. Remove the clip and the pin that attaches the clevis to the brake pedal and retain them. If the lower hole does not already exist, one must be drilled. Screw the clevis assembly in the push rod on the booster about 1/2″
- Mount the booster to the fire-wall with the existing studs or bolts. Place the clevis assembly into the lower hole in the pedal and install the pin and clip.
- Install the proper fitting into the intake manifaold for vacuum. Connect the vacuum hose from the engine to the power booster. YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST 18″ VACUUM TO OPERATE BOOSTER.
- Bench bleed the master cylinder with the supplied bleeder kit.
- Install the master cylinder into the booster.
- Mount the combination valve to supplied bracket and attach the bracket and lines.
- You will now need to run two lines from the supplied combination valve to the frame. Tie the lines into the existing front and rear lines with brake line couplers. You may run two separate lines from the combination valve to each front wheel or you may plug one outlet to the front, run one line and then split it to each front wheel.