- BB-T6366
NOTE: Booster may differ from picture depending on type of booster options you have chosen.
STEPS: Read these instructions carefully!
IMPORTANT: This kit is assembled for shipping purposes only! Be sure to check all nuts and bolts for adequate torque prior to use. Don’t forget!
- Remove original master cylinder, pedal clevis and hard lines.
- Remove master cylinder from power booster as you will need to bench bleed it prior to bleeding the system. Inexpensive bleeder kits are available at any auto parts store for minimal cost. We also sell a bleeder kit. Install your pedal clevis onto booster. NOTE: Booster pushrod may need to be trimmed to fit.
- Install the booster onto the original studs that mounted the original master cylinder to the firewall. You will need to mark and drill the two remaining holes that mount the bracket to the firewall. Some trucks mounting studs are diagonal, this is normal. NOTE: Some firewall studs were course thread and some were fine thread, you will need to supply the appropriate nuts for the installation!
- You will need to drill a 3/8” hole 1-1/2” lower than the original clevis hole in pedal. Mount the heim joint onto the lower hole with supplied thick washer between the pedal and heim joint. Check for proper adjustment by making sure the brake pedal is all the way up and no pressure is being applied to the booster. Be sure to tighten the clevis jam nut.
- Mount your bench bled master cylinder to the power booster. Connect all appropriate hard lines and bleed the system. NOTE: ON GM MASTER CYLINDERS, THE FRONT PORT IS FOR THE FRONT BRAKES AND THE REAR PORT IS FOR THE REAR BRAKES.
- If you are running disc brakes be sure to have the proper proportioning valve kit for your application.
- Double check all of your work and proceed to check the system for any leaks.
- Be sure to hook up your vacuum line to the appropriate port on the manifold.
Recommendations:
- We highly recommend that you perform a vacuum check on your particular engine. Acceptable vacuum numbers would be from 15in/hg to 22in/hg. For those who have lower numbers we offer a vacuum pump. Call for details.
- We also offer disc brake master cylinders and proportioning valves for those who do not want to run power brakes. Call for details.
im am interested in the non power mc/prop valve setup for disc/drum on my 66 C10, and an brake line kit to go along with that front to back. thanks
Please contact us at 800-638-1703
Ok i guess I’m a returd or something but on my 1963 C-10 chevy that I’m converting from front drum to front power disc only has one line coming from the old master cylinder. I know i have to change out the front lines because I now need two break lines coming from the master. One for front and one going to the rear. I bought my conversion kit from you guys and it came with a proportioning valve. Is that all I need to get the pressure right or do I need something else to reg. the pressure.
Thanks,
Jessie
Hello, thanks for your purchase. Your 1963 will need to be converted to a dual line system. The conversion is quite simple.
We can walk you through that if you contact us at 800-638-1703. The supplied proportioning valve is all that you need for the correct bias of the system.
Thanks,
You guys are great. I will be in touch once I get to that point.
Will the C10 power booster kit also work on a 66 K20 (3/4 ton 4×4)
Yes, the power booster kit will fit your 66 K20.
So just to give an update on my 1963 Chevy C-10. I ended up buying new break lines from you guys. After getting every thing installed, I now have better breaks than my new SUV. Thanks guys ya’ll were great help. I now have a problem that my wife said I have to fix. Due to the conversion kit 2 1/2 drop the truck has way too much rake. What would you guys recommend on the drop for the rear. I’m thinking 3″ on rear and putting 1/2″ spring spacers in the front springs. Your help on this is greatly appreciated.
Your site was a nice find for me although the responses are dated I’m sure still okay.
I have 63 C10, do I need a proportioning setup for 4 Wheel DRUM brakes? New brake lines?
Thank you, much appreciated.
You do not need a proportioning valve for the drum brake setup. New brake lines are recommended but not
required. However on your particular vehicle, the factory brake setup is a single line system and our
power drum brake setup is for a dual line system. If you need further info contact us at info@performanceonline.com
I bought the stainless brake line kit for front power conversion for my 66 c10 from you. The vehicle had some butchered lines in place and no instructions were included with the kit I purchased. I know I’m going to need a 3 port prop valve as the old one is a 2 port. We stuffed a 496 in this one and not sure how the lines need to go, please help.
Hello Dean. Unfortunately, none of the brake line manufactures include any layout instructions. Your engine size should not be a problem. You will need to lay them out to see which line goes where. The kits are designed with 2 lines for the front and one for the rear, so yes a new prop valve may be required.
Why do you have to drill a. Hole 1&1/2 inch lower than the original hole in the brake pedal, where the pushrod mounts to the pedal? Can you provide more info? Thanks for your help.
Drilling a new hole in the brake pedal is very standard procedure because a power brake system uses a lower pedal ratio than a manual brake system. These early trucks all used a pedal ratio that was set to a manual spec.
Even the original power brake optioned trucks used a manual ratio but accomplished the ratio change with a cantilever type bracket to alter the ratio.
Do I understand correctly? The old location gave more leverage to press manual brakes. That leverage is not needed for power brakes, so moving the connection down the arm gives ita more proper feel?
Yes you are correct. Manual brakes typically have a 6:1 pedal ratio as compared to a typical power brake setup of 4:1